Materials

Artificial jewellery in Pakistan: what each type is made of and how long it lasts

“Artificial” covers everything from a Rs. 300 bazaar set to steel that lasts for years. The label tells you nothing; the metal tells you everything.

Zayr Studio4 min read

Updated

In Pakistan, “artificial jewellery” means anything that is not real gold, silver or diamond, and it covers very different materials: cast base-metal alloys, brass, gold- or rhodium-plated pieces, stainless steel, and imitation kundan, polki and American diamond work. How long a piece lasts depends almost entirely on the base metal and the finish, not the design, so the first question to ask about any artificial piece is what it is made of.

The main types, and what is underneath

Base-metal alloy

The cheapest and most common category. Usually zinc-based or other soft alloys cast into shape, then plated gold or silver-tone. Cast alloy is what makes elaborate designs affordable, since complicated shapes pour easily into moulds. It is also soft, can bend or snap at thin points, and once the plating wears, the grey base underneath shows and can darken.

Brass and copper

Brass is copper and zinc. It is a step up from soft alloys in strength and is widely used for bangles, jhumkas and plated sets. Unplated brass darkens to a brown patina over time. When plating wears on brass, copper in the metal reacts with sweat, which is the usual cause of green marks on skin.

Gold-plated and rhodium-plated

Not a material but a finish: a thin layer of gold or rhodium electroplated over brass, alloy, copper or silver. The finish is what you see, but the base decides what happens when it wears. Plating thickness varies enormously between sellers, and “gold plated” on a listing gives no indication of which end of that range a piece sits at.

Stainless steel

A newer category in the local market and very different in behaviour. Good steel such as 316L does not tarnish or rust in normal wear, and gold or black tones are often applied by PVD rather than plating. It costs more to make in intricate shapes, so designs tend to be cleaner and simpler than cast alloy.

Imitation kundan and polki

Traditional kundan sets stones using highly refined gold foil, and traditional polki uses uncut diamonds. Imitation versions keep the look using glass or synthetic stones backed with coloured foil, set with lac or adhesive into plated brass or alloy. They are made for weddings and occasions, and they are sensitive to water, heat and pressure, which can loosen the stones or cloud the foil.

American diamond (AD) and CZ

“American diamond” is a South Asian trade name for cubic zirconia, a synthetic stone. It has nothing to do with America or with diamonds. CZ itself is durable and stays bright if kept clean; the lifespan of an AD piece depends on the metal and plating around the stones.

How long each type usually lasts

These are rough expectations for a reasonably made piece, not guarantees. Frequency of wear, sweat, perfume and storage all move the numbers a great deal.

TypeOccasional wearDaily wearWhat fails first
Cheap plated alloyA season or two if stored dryWeeks to a few monthsPlating wears; base darkens; thin parts bend
Plated brassSeveral years with careMonths to around a yearPlating on high-friction points; green marks
Thickly plated brass or silverMany yearsA year or moreEdges and ring palms
Imitation kundan or polkiMany weddings if kept dryNot made for daily wearLoose stones, cloudy foil, broken hooks
American diamond on plated metalYearsMonths to a yearPlating around the stones; stones loosening
316L stainless steelIndefinitelyYearsSurface scratches; PVD colour at edges

What shortens the life of any artificial piece

  • Sweat: salty and slightly acidic, and constant from May to September in most of the country.
  • Perfume and attar: alcohol and oils attack plating and the adhesive in kundan work. Put jewellery on after fragrance, not before.
  • Water: wudu, washing dishes and showers wear plating and seep under set stones.
  • Humidity in storage: a damp almirah during the monsoon darkens base metals and tarnishes silver-tone finishes.
  • Friction: bangles against each other, rings against steering wheels, necklaces against embroidered necklines.
  • Harsh cleaning: toothpaste, baking soda and scouring pads remove plating.

What to check before buying

  1. The base metal. A seller who cannot say whether something is alloy, brass or steel is telling you something.
  2. Weight and feel. Very light, thin pieces with sharp casting seams are usually soft alloy.
  3. Stone settings. Stones held by metal prongs last longer than stones held only by glue.
  4. Clasps and hooks. They fail before anything else on a necklace; look for a proper lobster clasp on everyday pieces.
  5. Honest naming. Stones should be described as CZ, glass or crystal — never as diamonds.
  6. The exchange policy, in case the piece arrives looking different from its photographs.

Matching the type to the occasion

The sensible approach is to buy by how often something will be worn. For a single baraat or mehndi, imitation kundan and plated occasion sets make complete sense: they are made to look spectacular for an evening and they can last for many events if stored properly. For something worn to university, the office or every day, pay for a better base metal or thicker finish instead of a more elaborate design.

Zayr’s women’s rings are rhodium- or gold-plated over a hypoallergenic base and set with CZ and coloured stones, while the men’s range is 316L steel with PVD colours. Neither is sold as real gold, silver or diamond. The bangle and ring ranges are in the women’s shop.

Artificial is not a quality level. It is a category that runs from a single evening to many years, and the metal is what decides where a piece falls.

Common questions

What is artificial jewellery made of?

Usually a base metal such as zinc-based alloy, brass or copper, finished with gold, silver or rhodium plating, and set with glass, crystal or cubic zirconia. Stainless steel jewellery is also sold as artificial. The base metal matters most, because it decides how the piece behaves once the finish wears.

How long does artificial jewellery last?

It varies from weeks to years. Cheap plated alloy worn daily may show wear within a few months, while plated brass worn occasionally can last years. Stainless steel can last many years of daily wear. Sweat, perfume, water and damp storage shorten every type.

What is American diamond jewellery?

American diamond, often shortened to AD, is a trade name used in Pakistan and India for cubic zirconia, a synthetic stone. It is not a diamond and has no connection to America. The stones are durable; the plated metal around them usually wears first.

Is artificial kundan jewellery waterproof?

No. Imitation kundan uses foil-backed stones set with lac or adhesive into plated metal, and water can loosen the stones and cloud the foil. Keep it away from water and perfume, and store it flat and dry between wears.

Which artificial jewellery does not turn black?

Good stainless steel such as 316L does not tarnish in normal wear, and PVD colours on steel hold up well. Plated brass and alloy darken once the plating wears through, and silver-tone finishes over base metal can dull in humid storage.

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